Today, woke late, and weird. I got up so late (6h45) and took ages also to get onto the road (into a cafe by 8, and out by 8h20), after catching an escaped lobster on the street (Yes, the Fish shop was getting its deliveries and the little bugger had made a getaway and was doing a crustacean sprint across the parking lot.Two Italian pilgrims, when I picked up the thing, its rusty red claws waving like crazy in the air unable to reach me, said that the shop folks would just eat it, and I said that otherwise it would just get hit by a car, so....) So it was a peculiar day, timing wise. I also wondered where the masses had gone, vansished, out onto that vast landscape pouring itself smoothly before me towards horizon after endless golden horizon line. In fact, I must say that though I mention the crowds a lot, I rarely see them on the road. There are moments, and small packs at bar and cafe stops, but one is only aware of "the mass" when one wants to find places to sleep.
Anyway, as if my day had not gone peculiarly enough, about halfway along to Calzadilla de la Cueza I came across a sort of fortune teller seated at a stone table with a red heart sprouting a cross on it. I took a photo of her hands over the heart as she dealt out a series of cards and I picked one which felt surprisingly in line with reflections I have had along my walk. The encounter was unexpected, and I was joined there by an Italian woman who also seemed to be struck by the card she picked. We then continued along our route towards the next town together, in silence, perhaps meditating ont he energy of the world and the correspondance between things.
Tonight, in a Alberge called the Templars in Spanish in a village called Terradillos de los Templarions. The Templar cross is often part of the monuments and stones with shells carved into them that we pass on our route. Now edging closer and closer towards Leon. The delight of a city... or not. As I always seem to stumble through them on Sunday, when everythign is closed!